VARANASI 1st & 2nd November 2005
One of those places we had to go out of curiosity as much as anything else. We arrived 7 hours late thanks to India Trains but still in time for Divali (the Hindu festival of light) which is like an Indian version of Guy Fawkes night but much crazier and more disorganised. Alongside the river here they burn bodies on the steps 24 hours a day and in full view of the public. For those that cannot afford the wood for a funeral, they are tied up in wrapping, weighed down and dumped in the river Ganges with a few flowers, most however are not weighed down enough and float back up so we saw several bodies including children, dogs and cattle floating down the river. People publicly use the steps as a toilet (both ends) and we even saw a guy having a crap whilst brushing his teeth in the flithy polluted Ganges river, nice! Recommended bacteria level for bathing is 500 bacteria for every 100ml of water, this has 1.5 million bacteria most of which contain pooh so needless to say I didn't take a dip. The place is fascinating but another complete filth hole that we'll never visit again!